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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Yaya's Diary - 25th March 2009 Kampala – 22/09 ![]() About this blog Yaya's Diary
Nairobi
25/03/2009
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Trip Destination
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=> array() ) ) $featured_trip_list = array( "Rio Trio" ) $use_gmap = true $selected_photo = array( "FeaturedPhoto" => array( "id" => "31", "photo_id" => "43" ), "Photo" => array( "id" => "43", "photo_album_id" => "14", "scoop_id" => "54", "title" => "Food", "filename" => "1235691139.jpg", "views" => "337", "rating" => "0", "Scoop" => array(), "PhotoAlbum" => array() ) ) $selected_blog = array( "FeaturedBlog" => array( "id" => "34", "blog_id" => "38" ), "Blog" => array( "id" => "38", "scoop_id" => "109", "title" => "Yaya's Diary", "content" => "<p>Kampala – 22/09<br />The first condition of understanding a foreign country is to smell it<br />Meet the group at Red Chilli’s Campsite and Hostel. Pre-departure meeting under shade of trees. No sign of Denford. Maggie replaces Oscar after he blew his head. Kim finds snake in clothes. Sample local African cuisine of pizza takeaway & Indian. Local bar for drinks. Beer and pool. Circus tent dorms. Sleep with the chorus of Kampala dogs.<br /><br />Queen Elizabeth National Park – 23/09<br />Stop worrying about the potholes in the road and celebrate the journey<br />Leave Red Chilli’s at 6am in darkness. Misty sunrise over Kampala city. Breakfast stop at the equator. Photos, muffins, smoothies, coffees. Pee stop, fuel stop, shop stop. Haggle for charcoal. Emma & Helen go on a chicken hunt. Pick up Charles, stand in chef, at Ishaka. First sign of rain. Descend into Queen Elizabeth National Park, wide open savannah. Boat trip on the Kazinga Channel. Hippos, Buffalo, Elephants, hailstones. Jase & Helen battered by hail whilst putting up tents and try to save them being blown into the bushes. Plan B – Pig shed dorms. Drinks at Mweya Lodge overlooking the park and channel, luxury loos. Delicious dinner from Charles, soup & chicken stew. Visit local cantina, table football, darts, killer pool & beer. Gold – Simon, Silver – Lance, Bronze – Helen. Walk back in dark through mud & hippos.<br /><br />Lake Bunyonyi – 24/09<br />Eat when you can, Sleep when you can, Shit when you can<br />Sunrise breakfast in park, scrambled eggs, fried eggs, omelettes. Warthogs trotting past, marabou storks standing around. Damp tents down, jerry cans filled. Game drive, lions chasing buffalo. Rupert discovers Lance has a bigger and better... zoom than him. Owl with a head like a cat. Gazelles, Elephants, Impalas and Warthogs, upside down trees, roof seats, Leopard whiskers. Jase questions Buffalo’s validity of getting into the Top 5. Daniela pees with the lions. Bumpy short cut to Kabale. Denford arrives looking rather hairy. Jase rises from Arsehole to President and back to Arsehole. Rupert = Shit Head, Lance = Cheat. Almost die of starvation. Saved by Kim & Lance’s scroggin and 50 bananas. Then wait even longer for chicken and chips. First suspected outbreak of upgrade fever at Lake Bunyonyi. Delicious sausage and mash supper from Charles & Denford. Dodgy pool table marked with a holy cross. Rupert spends too long learning Swahili he forgets his own language. Jess and Heath joy at gorilla permits. Sunset over Lake Bunyonyi, the Switzerland of Africa.<br /><br />Ruhengeri (1) – 25/09<br />A full belly is a happy belly<br />Lie in at Lake Bunyonyi. Reverend Noa hitches a lift to Kabale and blesses Maggie. Fast, smooth border entering Rwanda. Haggle for currency. Ozzie’s Kiwi’s & Mexican’s have to pay. Incredible Swahili rendition of heads, shoulers, knees & toes at the back of the truck, The Swahili School for Unemployed Alcoholics is born. Drive through lush green valleys of tea, tree lined roads. Thriving agriculture, fresh air, clean streets. Car park lunch, visit Genocide Memorial Museum in Kigali. Up the hill to Ruhengeri. Poki supper, meet Maggie’s brother Josh. Shared dorms at Fatima’s. Charles reunited with Anna & Ian. The terrace bar is discovered.<br /><br />Ruhengeri (2) – 26/09<br />Jess & Heath up early to trek the Amahoro group. Others help make banana beer and walk through villages. Return with 2 bottles – bad idea. Wander through Ruhengeri, beer at Silverbacks. Rupert gets Samaki Ha’d 3 times whilst shopping for a tennis ball. Swahili session with the locals who selfishly then want to practise their English. Maria & Patricia make Mexican chilli & lime crisps. Hardcore drinking and card games the night before gorillas. Torrential rain. Water game introduced. Simon continues playing long after it finishes. Surrounded by silent eaters, after dinner prayers. <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Ruhengeri (3) – 27/09<br />I feel sorry for people who don’t drink. When they wake up in the morning that’s as good as they’re going to feel all day – Frank Sinatra<br />5am breakfast and packed lunch. 11 people squeeze in for the ride to the Volcano National Park. Gorilla statue moves before entering the park. Carved wooden walking poles. Uphill walking. Emma dives into nettles. Memorable hour watching one of the world’s most endangered mammals. Jess, Heath & Helen follow the call of the drums and visit church. Walk through town to Greg’s house in darkness. Down a side street and behind a sinister looking warehouse into a beautiful banana tree lined garden, sit on wicker mats. Local foods including Ugali, peanut sauce and beef stew. Onto Silverbacks. Get DJ out of bed in pyjamas, get fridge stocked with beer, and then leave. More games, Karma, Suck & Blow and banana beer at Fatima’s. Rupert beats Lance in the dance off. Rupert goes from 9 to 19 in a short walk. Helen remembers nothing, most importantly where she put the key. Simon is forced to find and alternative receptacle in which to empty his bladder, whilst Jess listens.<br /><br />Lake Bunyonyi – 28/09<br />Some days we are the flies. Other days we are the windscreen<br />Depart Ruhengeri after jump start. Surprise border in _ hour. Daniela tries to short change the money changer. Beautiful road via Kisoro, stepped hillsides, every inch farmed. Cause riot giving pens to children at viewpoint. Lunch at lake shore. Boat trip to pygmy tribe, children try to wipe off Heath’s tattoos and steal belongings. Kids in rags hanging off arms. Others relax by lake, the only lake in Africa to be hippo, bilharzia & croc free. Quiet, sensible night in front of camp fire.<br /><br />Kampala – 29/09<br />Enda Samaki Ha!<br />Early morning torrential downpour (thanks again Jess & Heath) ensures a damp start to the day. Maggie misbehaving again with flat battery. Jump from Guerba truck. Simon & Kim in the sick seats. Motel lunch stop. Simon finds the worst loo in the world, shit on the walls. Pass lots of upturned trucks. Kings & Assholes make the road seem shorter. Darkness drive through Kampala. Drive wrong way up road to avoid traffic. Mzungu rules. Back to Chilli’s for the night, beer & pool.<br /><br />Jinja (1) – 30/09<br />The most wasted day of all is one in which we have not laughed<br />Leisurely start, morning in Kampala. Luke & Heath turn mechanic and change shock absorber. Short drive through lush rainforest to Adrift campsite in Jinja, the source of the White Nile, stretching from Sudan to Malawi. Enguili Mwalimu’s set the Swahili test. Anki, Emma & Helen sit the test. A close battle but Helen pips Anki at the post to win the prized notebook. Relaxing by pool next door. Outstanding roast dinner from Denford. Shots, beers, impressive pole dancing from Jase leads to chaffing. Rupert makes a night time naked loo visit and surprises an unsuspecting girl.<br /><br />Jinja (2) – 01/10<br />Kim’s birthday. Lance decorates tent with balloons and banners. 6 go rafting, feast at lunch island. Maria goes for an unintended swim. Boda boda race to Bujagali Falls – Ghandi’s ashes. Luke & Helen use a little bribery to accelerate up the hill and win. Locals brave the grade 5 rapids floating down on a jerry can. Others spend afternoon in Barclay’s exchanging money. Jess gets ass swiped by kids wanting money. Rupert takes refuge from the midday heat in the sweltering truck. Rafters return merry from free beers. Simon gets lobster legs. Birthday cake, candles and the special balloon chair, upside down kayak, ominous pink patches on the grass in various places. <br /><br />Jinja (3) – 02/10<br />Soft power project. Emma & Jess play doctors and nurses. School children outshine the mzungu’s with their rendition of head, shoulders, knees & toes. Red paint, windows and poles. Cattle truck transport. Jase disappointed in Jess & Emma giving away all the free condoms. Poker playing with pens. Heath goes bungy for the film crew and gets a full body dunking. Kim, Lance & Jase go rafting and fail to flip the raft on a Grade 5 after 3 attempts. Sausage stew supper.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Nakuru – 03/10<br />Tents down in dark. Maggie misbehaving with flat battery and low fuel, Helen dons fetching yellow overalls. Samosas and chipatis at border into Kenya. Lunch and cheese tasting at Dorinyo Lessos factory in Eldoret. Delicious ice cream. Jase talks his way out of a speeding fine. Long drive day into night. Arrive in darkness at Kembu campsite, friendly dogs. Home made bread, 3 course supper. Everybody camps.<br /><br />Masai Mara (1) – 04/10<br />Goodbye to Maggie. Squeeze into matatu’s packed to the limit, head into the Masai Mara. Sideways slide on mud roads. Locals in wellies standing by to push us out. Intensive Swahili hour in the Antelope bus, very productive. Lunch at Acacia camp, followed by some light rain, followed by some heavier rain, followed by some hail. Rivers run through camp. Kat & Anki have small pond in tent. Game drive for afternoon. Royal Mara Antelope Society in element. Lions, cubs and more cubs, elephants, Masai giraffes, common zebra etc. Denford excels himself again with roast chicken. Kim gets ants in her pants, Lance runs into a tree, and then some more rain. Denford dreams of snakes and wakes Simon in a panic checking under the bed with a torch.<br /><br />Masai Mara (2) – 05/10<br />Never test the depth of water with both feet, or 4 wheels<br />Early morning game drive. Day starts well with a Dik Dik before even entering the park, followed by Gazelles, Coke’s Hartebeest, Eland, Bastard Bird, Secretary Bird & Vultures. Antelope bus stuck in mud after ploughing head first into a water filled trench at speed. More torrential rain at Hippo pools, roof down, sleepy time. Kim narrowly misses having a mud bath. Rhino chased by matatu’s. Baboon porn. Lion King sitting on top of rock. Burgers, chips, bananas & custard. Storytelling with Yaya. Masai silently guarding camp with bows & arrows. Emma escorted to the loo by Daniela to protect her from lions.<br /><br />Nairobi (1) – 06/10<br />Masai village visit. Dancing women, brightly coloured clothes and jewellery, jumping male Masai. Lion mane hats, goat enclosure, fire starting, cigarette lighting, bow & arrow at close range into cow’s tournique’d neck, take blood for drinking with milk, stir to stop clotting. See inside dark, smokey houses. Market appears from nowhere, shopping, Masai blankets, Lion’s teeth. Sleepy journey to Nairobi. Meal at homely Indaba campsite.<br /><br />Nairobi (2) – 07/10<br />Pick up new passengers from the comfort of the Boulevard Hotel and leave one behind. Drop off old passengers at the supermarket and leave a couple more behind, oops. Visit the David Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage, little ones in blankets running down the hill to their milk bottles. Kicking a football around, bathing in the dust. Giraffe Sanctuary, kissing giraffes, antiseptic saliva, taste of pellets, one final shop. Back to Indaba for lunch, a relaxing afternoon. Packed truck for trip to Mediterranean restaurant. Jase, Helen & Denford presented with Sweden tops.<br /><br />EXTRA IMPORTANT NOTES:<br />Rupert: Ah, a new beer, what’s this, Sen-Ate-Or?<br />Jase: What sort of peanuts do they make the peanut sauce with?<br />Rupert: There simply MUST be more beer!<br />Rupert: Oh I’ve got a sun dot on my arm. Luke: It’s a freckle<br />Helen: It’s a sausage tree. Kim: Are they real sausages?<br />One more (not from this trip but worth repeating): Ben – “I want to marry you Denford”, Denford – “Sorry Ben, I am not a gay”</p>", "photo_filename" => "1238037717.jpg", "views" => "848", "rating" => "0", "Scoop" => array() ) ) $selected_video = array( "FeaturedVideo" => array( "id" => "35", "video_id" => "31" ), "Video" => array( "id" => "31", "scoop_id" => "100", "filename" => "1237599462.jpg", "title" => "Skiing Gaff", "description" => "", "length" => null, "thumbnail_url" => null, "views" => "579", "rating" => "0", "Scoop" => array() ) ) $selected_photos = array( array( "FeaturedPhoto" => array(), "Photo" => array() ), array( "FeaturedPhoto" => array(), "Photo" => array() ), array( "FeaturedPhoto" => array(), "Photo" => array() ), array( "FeaturedPhoto" => array(), "Photo" => array() ) ) $selected_videos = array( array( "FeaturedVideo" => array(), "Video" => array() ), array( "FeaturedVideo" => array(), "Video" => array() ), array( "FeaturedVideo" 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<p class="header">Trip Destination</p><?echo "<p>Location: ".$destination['name'].", ".$destination['country']."</p>";
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Location: Fareham,
A side effect of traveling on a shoe-string, is that sometimes one's travel or accommodation arrangements don't go to plan. This won't be of surprise to anyone who has done the w...
Trip Destination
Location: Marrakech,
Arrival Date: 15th Dec 2008
Departure Date: 17th Dec 2008
Back to Marrakech - 26/02/2009
I had big things planned today: immersing myself into the Moroccan way by wandering around the Medina and exploring the back alleys of Marrakech. Huh huh, more back alley references...
Other blogs from this destination:
Trip Destination
Location: Merzouga,
Arrival Date: 17th Dec 2008
Departure Date: 19th Dec 2008
It will take 2 days to reach the Sahara desert. Rather than just making a mad, uncomfortable dash for le plage, we will visit a few sights along the way.
To keep the trip economically...
Trip Destination
Location: Essaouira,
Arrival Date: 19th Dec 2008
Departure Date: 21st Dec 2008
This morning's trip to Essaouira began with a 3 hour wait for my bus. I wasn't too put out as I'm reading Richard Dawkins' 'God Delusion' which is doing a good job of dis...
Trip Destination
Location: Marrakech,
Arrival Date: 21st Dec 2008
Departure Date: 22nd Dec 2008
Trip Destination
Location: Geneve,
Arrival Date: 22nd Dec 2008
Departure Date: 22nd Dec 2008
Trip Destination
Location: Zurich,
Arrival Date: 22nd Dec 2008
Departure Date: 22nd Dec 2008


Yaya's DiaryNairobi, Kenya - 7th Oct 2008

Kampala – 22/09
The first condition of understanding a foreign country is to smell it
Meet the group at Red Chilli’s Campsite and Hostel. Pre-departure meeting under shade of trees. No sign of Denford. Maggie replaces Oscar after he blew his head. Kim finds snake in clothes. Sample local African cuisine of pizza takeaway & Indian. Local bar for drinks. Beer and pool. Circus tent dorms. Sleep with the chorus of Kampala dogs.
Queen Elizabeth National Park – 23/09
Stop worrying about the potholes in the road and celebrate the journey
Leav... [read more]
Across the straights into AfricaFes, Morocco - 14th Jan 2009

After a few problems with the previously established ferry discounts, we were away on the 11am Tarifa to Tangier speed-ferry. Africa here we come.
It was a fairly clear day, and throughout the journey it was possible to see both land masses either side of the 9 miles that separate Europe and Africa. From a coastline I know quite well, with the grassy hills of San Roque forming the backdrop behind the distinct shape of the rock of Gibraltar, to a complete unknown for me, in the shape of the gateway to Africa, Tangier.
We had heard of previous groups having probl... [read more]

This morning's trip to Essaouira began with a 3 hour wait for my bus. I wasn't too put out as I'm reading Richard Dawkins' 'God Delusion' which is doing a good job of distracting me from this wretched city. More slating later in this entry.
Two and a half hours later I arrived at the seaside town of Essaouira on the West coast of Morocco. As I so often do in new towns, I put my map into my back pocket and went for a random wander; on this occasion I got myself lost in the Jewish quarter, or the 'Mellah'. My experiences of Moroccan towns so far s... [read more]




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